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Old 01-02-2013, 03:18 PM
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Gold Refining Step By Step Instructions

This is the first set of instructions for chemical PM refining;



GOLD REFINING STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS




For every ounce of scrap gold you are going to refine you will need a capacity of 300 milliliter container for the aqua regia solution.

Place impure gold to be dissolved into a glass or plastic container.

Aqua regia - Mix one part nitric acid to 3 parts hydrochloric acid and add to container.

OR

To the container, add 30 milliliter of nitric acid for every ounce of metal.To the container, add 120 ml of hydrochloric or muriatic acid for every ounce of metal in the container.

Allow impure gold to dissolve for an hour to overnight for complete dissolution.

Once all gold is dissolved, filter out any particles out of the acid solution containing the liquified gold into another glass container using a fine stainless strainer. The remaining particles should not be discarded as these may contain other precious metals!

The acid containing the dissolved gold will be an amber to emerald green color depending on the purity of the gold and should be clear (not murky or cloudy). If the acid solution containing the dissolved gold is murky, it may contain particles and should be re-filtered with a finer grade paper filter.

Slowly, add water/urea (urine ) to the acid solution containing the dissolved gold. The acid solution containing the dissolved gold will foam with the addition of the water/urea (urine). Do not add the water/urea (urine) so quickly that the acid foams out of its container. When the acid solution containing the dissolved gold stops reacting to the addition of water/urea (urine), stop adding the water/urea (urine). You've just raised the pH of the acid from 0.1 To 1.0, killing the nitric acid but not the hydrochloric.

Add precipitant ( sodium bisulfite ) slowly in minute amounts to the acid solution containing the dissolved gold, immediately the acid solution containing the dissolved gold will change to a muddy brown appearance as brown particles of gold form in the solution. Occasionally agitate the solution with a glass stir rod, as the brown particles continue to form they will sink to the bottom of the container, this brown "mud" is, despite its appearance, pure gold.

Allow precipitant ( sodium bisulfite ) to fully draw out all the gold out of the solution, test for gold in the remaining solution, if it tests positive for gold, you may have to add more precipitant ( sodium bisulfite ).

To test the solution for remaining gold, first immerse the end of the stirring rod in the acid. Remove it and touch that end to a paper towel to make a wet spot. Put a drop of gold detection liquid on the wet spot on the paper towel. If any gold is still dissolved in the acid, the wet spot will turn a purple-black or a purple-brown. If you see this color change then give the precipitant more time to work and/or add more precipitant.

Now all the gold should be drawn out of the solution and the acid should now be a clear amber color with a brown mud settled at the bottom.

Using a fine paper filter, pour off the acid into another container allowing the mud to stay in the filter. The mud is pure gold.

When all the acid is poured off, return the mud to a container for rinsing, add tap water to the mud. Stir and let the mud settle. Using a fine paper filter, pour off the tap water into the container with the acid. Do not pour off any particles of brown. Repeat this rinsing 3-4 times or more.

After completing the final tap water rinse, rinse once again with aqua ammonia ( 10% ammonia to 90% distilled water ) - white vapors will appear. The aqua ammonia cleans impurities from the gold mud while, at the same time, it neutralizes any acid still clinging to the gold mud.

While in the fine paper filter, give the mud one last rinse, this time with distilled water until mud and filter is clean.

Take filter with clean gold mud and gently squeeze of any excess water and place filter with mud into crucible for melting.

Once melted, the gold will again take on the appearance of metal. If you've followed the instructions carefully and used filters, the gold will be 999.5 % Pure with virtually no losses.

Platinum - If you had platinum in your gold, it will not dissolve, to any appreciable degree, in the room temperature aqua regia. It will be left behind when you pour off the aqua regia, prior to precipitation. To insure high purity of the platinum, you will need to re-refine this material. Put this material in a fresh aqua regia bath. This time, however, heat the acid to simmering. Continue heating until all the platinum is dissolved (that may take 1-2 hours). When completely dissolved add 1 ounce of ammonium chloride for every ounce of dissolved platinum. The platinum will precipitate as a red mud. If you want to leave the iridium in the platinum, then wait for it to precipitate before recovering the platinum. Iridium will precipitate as a blue-black mud after the platinum precipitates. Platinum group metals will also show up on the stannous chloride test. Platinum turns red, palladium turns orange and iridium turn blue-black.

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Old 01-02-2013, 03:47 PM
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Another Chemical Gold Refining Method

Another Chemical Gold Refining Method


If proper precautions are taken, care is exercised and basic common sense used, then handling very small quantities of nitric (and in this tutorial, hydrochloric) acids is no more dangerous than many other potentially harmful chemicals normally found in the average kitchen, laundry or garage that we use every day. Chemicals such as strong bleach, drain "unblockers", swimming pool chemicals, ammonia, tree stump killers, car battery acid, etc ALL have the potential to cause serious harm if misused ... however, I'm sure that the average, level headed person is able to handle and use such "dangerous" chemicals without any harm whatsoever ... simply because they exercise care and common sense when using them.

So it is with the acids used in silver and gold refining ... care and common sense.

Ok, let's start processing gold !

We need some basic equipment which consists of:

a plastic water spray bottle,
a plastic spoon,
a plastic "swizzle" stick,
a plastic "turkey baster" pipette, and

a small plastic funnel.

All these items were purchased at one of those "cheap" stores for just a few dollars only. We need a couple of small glass cylinders and in my case, I used some "empty" spice jars from the kitchen. At least that's what I told my wife.

Also we need a small glass bowl able to stand up to boiling water and that will allow one of the spice jars to be placed upright in it. (eg pyrex) The boiling water poured into the bowl will help heat the contents of the spice jar. We will also need some cheap disposable plastic gloves such as the ones used for food handling.

We'll also need some coffee filters. Again, both of these items were purchased at the "cheap" store for a couple of dollars.

The next items that we'll need is:

a bottle of 68-70% strength Nitric acid and
a bottle of 32% Hydrochloric acid.

These are both readily obtainable from the majority of chemical supply companies which you'll have no problems in finding in your local yellow pages. A 500 ml bottle of each will be quite adequate.

The nitric acid is used to dissolve any other contaminating metals in the item containing gold; such as copper, silver, etc. We need to remove such contaminants leaving behind relatively clean (but not yet pure) gold for final processing.

The hydrochloric acid will be used in conjunction with the nitric acid to dissolve and purify the gold after the other metal contaminants have been removed by the nitric acid. At this point, it's time for another WARNING reminder, so PLEASE PAY ATTENTION.

Nitric and hydrochloric acids, by their nature are powerful corrosive acids and skin contact should be avoided. When working with them, you should ALWAYS be wearing those disposable plastic gloves that we purchased earlier. Eye protection would also be advisable.

Simple care, caution and common sense is all that's needed and you'll be perfectly safe. In all the years that I've been refining silver and gold for a hobby and using nitric and hydrochloric acids, not once has there been an issue or concern. If any is spilled on a surface, just immediately rinse off with plenty of plain, clean water.

Also, small quantities of nitrogen dioxide gas is produced so ALWAYS do the refining outside in the open air.

The motto is: "Be careful and be safe".

But let me reiterate one more time ... if you exercise common sense and basic care, this entire procedure is perfectly safe. Again, I've been doing this for quite a few years with NO mishaps whatsoever.


Moving right along ...

There are 2 additional items that we will require to process gold but weren't necessary for silver processing.

These items are Urea (urine) and Sodium Meta Bisulphite.

Urea is nothing more than plant fertilizer (or urine) and can be found at almost all plant nurseries and large supermarkets with a garden section. A big bag is worth just a few dollars.

Sodium Meta Bisulphite, despite it's very scientific name, is very common and can be found in any store/shop that supplies home brewing kits/products so there should be no probs in locating it. SMB is used for sterilizing the home brew containers to kill any yeast. A small bag is all that's needed and costs just a few dollars. And to complete our refining "kit", we need some way of melting the raw gold into the shiny metal that people have lusted after for millenia

Thankfully, all we need to do is head to the nearest hardware store and get something along the lines of a propane powered torch. The one I use has a self-igniting switch built in, so no need to use matches to get it going. Also has a rotary button to control the strength of the flame. No problems whatsoever in finding one as they're a common handyman item and it easily melts silver and gold. As for the material containing gold that will be processed, sure you could use old bits of gold jewelry or anything else that you've got lying around with a reasonable gold content or purchase on eBay.

To dissolve the metal contaminants, we need to use a 50/50 mixture of nitric acid and water. The amount of nitric acid required will be determined by the amount of metal and size of container. Using the plastic pipette, the water is added first followed by the nitric acid.

To help speed the reaction along, the entire glass tube is placed in a bath of boiling water. Periodically, as it cools, replace the bath water with fresh boiling water to keep the reaction going.

There is an immediate strong reaction as copper contaminants immediately start turning the liquid a blue color.

Also notice the release of brown nitrogen dioxide gas. At this point, walk away from the reaction and do NOT inhale the gas. The reaction can proceed unattended until there is no more bubbling visible.

When the reaction finally stops, add an additional very small quantity (a few mls) of nitric. If bubbling starts up again, then not all the contaminant metals have been dissolved yet and once again, allow the process to continue on its own. If adding further nitric does NOT result in bubbling, then all metal contaminants will have been dissolved leaving behind relatively pure gold.

At this point, you can dilute the blue liquid with water, wait for the gold to settle to the bottom, then carefully pour most of the liquid into another container. Just be careful and don't pour away any of the gold !!

Instead of waiting so long for the metal to settle, make the water heavy by adding dish-washing liquid.

When it is cleaned and you are ready to melt, pour it out wet and it wont blow away, BUT it will leach the impurities from the water, so...

Add some more water to the settled gold to dilute even further any remaining liquid, then let the gold settle again, then carefully pour most of the liquid into another container ... again, DON'T pour away any of the gold.

After repeating the dilute/pour procedure a few times you have some gold in the yellow liquid.

Note: If you use gold jewelry or any kind of gold/silver mixture, then chances are good that the blue liquid that you've been diluting/pouring off will contain reasonable amounts of dissolved silver. In that case, the silver can also be recovered by using the method I described -
-------
Having successfully removed almost all of the contaminants leaving the gold in an "almost" pure state, we're now going to process the gold one last time to remove any minute stubborn contaminants and end up with essentially 99.9% pure 24k gold ... woohoo !!

Now that the remaining nitric acid has been neutralized, we can now go ahead and successfully convert the dissolved gold back into a solid form ... in this case, as a brown precipitate that will settle on the bottom of the glass jar.

To create this precipitate, we now sprinkle approximately half a spoonful of Sodium Meta Bisulphite (MSB) into the yellow liquid. After a few seconds, a brown cloudiness begins to form and spread throughout the yellow liquid. After a few minutes, the brown precipitate begins to fall and settle on the bottom of the glass jar and what was once yellow liquid, starts to turn clear. This color change from yellow to clear is a sure sign that the dissolved gold is being removed out of solution and precipitated or "dropped" out. Let the process continue for a couple of hours to ensure all the gold is precipitated.


At this point, looking into the glass jar, we should hopefully see 2 things:

1. What looks like brown "mud" or sediment covering the bottom of the glass jar, and

2. A completely clear liquid where it used to be yellow.

Now, trying very hard to not disturb the brown sediment, pour off as much of the clear liquid as possible into a bucket or other suitable container. Later, the discarded liquid in the bucket will be considerably diluted with plain water and then disposed of.

The sediment and what little liquid is left will be transferred to the empty and clean shallow glass bowl that we've been using earlier for a boiling water bath. Once transferred, add sufficient water to just cover the brown sediment, let the sediment settle again, then carefully pour off as much of the water as possible. We want to give the sediment a really good "wash" so repeat this a couple more times. On the last "wash" try to pour off the maximum amount of water (but not the sediment !) then let the glass bowl stand somewhere long enough until all the remaining liquid has naturally evaporated and the sediment is completely dry.

In this final step, we're going to do some "alchemy" ... just like the Ancients used to do ! One of the marvelous properties of gold, and what makes it so sought after and desirable, is that its a metal that that will never tarnish or rust or corrode.
That's because gold is an extremely nonreactive metal. And because its so nonreactive and stable, non of the common acids will touch it ... not nitric, not hydrochloric, not sulphuric, etc.

So how DO we get the gold to dissolve ?

We'll take advantage of the Ancients knowledge of applied alchemy when they somehow discovered that a mixture of 1 part nitric and 3 parts hydrochloric performed the seemingly impossible ... it dissolved gold !

Because this combination of acids had the "power" to dissolve gold, which they considered to be the most "regal or noble" of metals, they gave it the special name of "Royal Water" ... or as they called it in Latin ... "Aqua Regia".


So, transfer the "washed" gold into one of the glass tubes and add a 1:3 mix of nitric and hydrochloric acids.

Immediately the gold starts to dissolve and the liquid starts to bubble and turn a nice yellow color. This is a good sign that almost all contaminants have been removed previously. If the liquid has a blue or green tinge, then that means some copper must still be present with the gold.

Again, to speed up the reaction, we'll place the glass tube into a bath of boiling water.

Allow the reaction to continue until all the gold has dissolved. If the reaction stops and some gold still remains, then add a further small quantity of "Aqua Regia". Ok, all the gold has dissolved leaving a yellow liquid behind ... for all intents and purposes, this yellow liquid is "liquid gold" ... so be very careful and DON'T spill any !

This yellow liquid may or not look slightly cloudy but either way, it won't do any harm to filter it. We're going to pour the yellow liquid through the filter and into a clean, empty glass tube.

Now I can't stress this part enough ... make sure that you have scrubbed and washed this glass tube until it's absolutely squeaky clean. The reason being that shortly, we'll be causing the dissolved gold to be "dropped" out of solution as a dark brown material that will settle on the bottom of the jar.
If the jar is NOT squeaky clean, some of the gold, as it drops out of solution, could stick to the sides of the glass jar giving it a very fine gold coating, similar to the fine silver coating on the back of a mirror. Then you'll waste time and effort in scraping this layer off to recover the gold in it. After all the yellow liquid has been poured into and passed through the filter, using the water spray bottle, spray the inside of the filter to ensure that every last bit of yellow liquid containing the gold has been washed through the filter and into the glass bottle.

Ok, now dilute the yellow liquid with an equal volume of water. We're now almost ready to precipitate or "drop" the gold back out of the yellow liquid but just before we do that, we need to completely neutralize any remaining traces of nitric acid that may still remain in the yellow liquid. The reason for this is simply that if we start to "drop" the gold in the form of a brown sediment, as soon as any of it appears, it will be immediately attacked by the remaining nitric/hydrochloric acid in the yellow solution and dissolved once again. So to prevent the "gold sediment" from going back into solution, where we don't want it to go, a simple way to prevent this is to first use urea to neutralize the nitric ... then successfully "drop" the sediment where it will eventually settle at the bottom of the glass jar. I recommend using just a pinch of urea at a time. When added to the yellow liquid, you should notice bubbles being created by the urea. This is a sign that nitric acid is being neutralized. As the urea is used up, continue adding smaller and smaller amounts until there is no more bubbling to be seen ... at this point, the remaining nitric acid has been completely neutralized and we can proceed with "dropping" the gold back out of solution as a brown sediment. Once you've neutralized the nitric by repeatedly adding small quantities of urea until no more bubbling to be seen coming off the urea, simply add a small quantity of SMB and almost immediately you'll see a brown cloudiness start to form. This gets darker and darker and eventually all the brown material falls to the bottom of the container leaving a clear liquid behind.

This "brown sediment" at the bottom of the container is actually "raw gold", if I can use that term. Simply by VERY carefully pouring off the clear liquid into another container. Then add enough fresh clean water to cover the brown sediment, leave to stand until the brown sediment has re-settled on the bottom (because adding fresh water will most likely stir it up), then VERY carefully pour of the water into another container.

Repeat this adding water/let settle/pour off 3 times in total ... the aim being to completely dilute and pour of any remaining traces of acid.

On the last pour off, try to pour off as much water as possible leaving the brown sediment behind. Then just let the remaining water evaporate and the sediment to dry.

The above may have been long winded in explanation but I wanted to make sure that every step of the process was as clear as possible making it easy for anyone interested enough to have a go at themselves.

Summarized, the process is simply:

1. place the scrap gold into nitric acid to dissolve all other metal "impurities"
2. filter the resulting blue solution and trap the gold
3. apply a mixture of 1:3 nitric/hydrochloric acid (aqua regia) to the gold to completely dissolve it
4. filter the resulting yellow liquid to remove any remaining impurities
5. neutralize any left over nitric acid still in the yellow liquid with urea
6. use SMB to precipitate the brown coloured "gold sediment"
7. wash the sediment then leave until dried to a brown powder
7. melt the brown powder back into metallic gold

Good luck to those of you thinking of giving it a go !

---------------


Now that we've finally got our virtually pure "raw gold powder", we're going to make a gold "button"

Normally when melting precious metals such as silver and gold, a proper crucible made of heat resistant material is used. Such a material is designed to withstand the approximate 1000C temperature required to melt silver and gold.

However, we're going to go low tech in our approach and instead of a high temp crucible, we're going to use a potato placed on top of a brick ... yep, you read that correctly .. we're going to use a potato upon which we're going to melt our brown powder back into gold metal !

Believe it or not, but a slice of potato can easily and for long enough, withstand the sort of temperatures we need to melt gold. A very thick slice of potato is all that's needed and we need to slightly carbonize (burn) the surface. The carbon helps pick up any minuscule impurities remaining in the gold and also the carbon layer helps prevent the gold from adhering to the potato. Now, we take a small quantity of our brown gold powder and place it on the potato surface. Because the brown powder is fine, we'll start with a low flame to prevent the pressure of the flame scattering (and losing !) our hard work. Once the brown powder has started to combine together, the flame is turned up high and melting begins. We do a small quantity at a time as it takes less time to melt and once melted, we continue adding additional small quantities and re-melt. This continues until all the brown powder has been used. Eventually all the brown powder has been melted down. And we're left holding a "button" of 99.9% pure gold to be added with the rest of our "long term investment" portfolio of gold "buttons".

The above may have been long winded in explanation but I wanted to make sure that every step of the process was as clear as possible making it easy for anyone interested enough to have a go at themselves.

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Old 01-02-2013, 03:51 PM
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Another Chemical Gold Refining Method

Yet Another Chemical Gold Refining Method




1. Remove lids (top and bottom) from ceramic cpus using MAPP gas or a hammer and center punch applied from the top.

2. Add broken cpu's into large beaker or coffee pot.

3. Add tap water. Add just enough to cover the cpus.

4. Add an equal volume of HCl (31.45% approx 10 M) to the amount of water used above.

5. Place small ceramic saucer on top of pot to prevent vapor from escaping.

6. Heat to just below boiling.

7. Add in 1-2 teaspoons of sodium nitrate, use one if processing less than one pound.

8. Heat on low-medium for 30-45 minutes or until brown fumes and fizzing/tiny bubbles are no longer visible.

9. If salts form allow to cool completely and pour off dark acid through tight filter and start at step 3 above. Filter may contain gold foils or powder. Rinse any solids back into the reaction vessel. Test saturated acid for dissolved gold with stannous chloride.

10. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until all metals are dissolved.

11. Remove ceramic saucer and let the solution evaporate down to 25% of it's original volume, or until salts form. With very carefully controlled nitrate/nitric additions, steps 11-13 can be skipped.

12. Add fresh HCl to expel nitric as brown vapors.

13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 two more times.

14. Dilute with equal volume of tap water or add a 1/4 of the solution volume of ice cubes.

15. Filter cold through packed funnel under vacuum until 100% free of sediment and suspended particles.

16. Add Sodium Meta Bisulfite to precipitate gold as brown powder.

17. Let settle and siphon liquid off brown powder.

18. Add enough water to cover brown powder and stir thoroughly.

19. Repeat steps 17 and 18 two more times.

20. Add enough HCl (32% 10M muriatic acid) to cover brown powder.

21. Boil HCl with brown powder until color of HCl no longer darkens.

22. Pour off the dirty HCl and repeat steps 20 and 21 until HCl no longer discolors. Test HCl washes for dissolved gold with stannous chloride.

23. Slowly dry gold in beaker by shaking beaker over medium heat until the gold powder moves freely about the beaker it's was precipitated in.

24. Transfer brown powder melting dish and heat to red heat (incinerate) DO NOT MELT!!!

25. Transfer incinerated powder to beaker and repeat process steps 3 to 23 on the brown powder.

26. Prepare melting dish as shown on my website melting videos.

27. Melt dry gold powder in properly prepared melting dish.



OR


1. Remove the gold bearing connections and edges from scrap circuit boards

2. Place the gold connectors into a glass Pyrex container.

3. Mix nitric acid and hydrochloric acid together slowly, in a 1:3 ratio, in a separate glass Pyrex container in a ratio that makes the desired proportion of "aqua regia." The ratio will vary significantly according to the concentration of each acid used.

4. Pour the acid mixture over the gold connectors so that they are completely submerged in the acid, and allow the mixture to stand for one hour. 


5. Pour the acid off into another glass Pyrex container, using a coffee filter to trap any contaminants or undissolved particles. 


6. Introduce a precipitant such as zinc into the mixture slowly, watching as the material gets dissolved in the acid until it is no longer absorbed and then test the acid for gold using the gold detection liquid and following the instructions that are included with the liquid. Add more precipitant if necessary until no gold is detected in the mixture. 


7. Add approximately a teaspoon of baking soda for every cup of acid being used to neutralise the remaining acid. Allow the mixture to settle for an hour. 


8. Decant the acid from the top slowly without disturbing the precipitant (brown mud) on the bottom of the container using a small plastic tubing as a siphon. Add some distilled water and stir into the brown mud. Allow this to settle for an hour and decant the water into the same container as the discarded acid. 


9. Melt


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Last edited by Don : 01-02-2013 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:18 PM
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Home Made Nitric Acid

Home Made Nitric Acid





Here is how to make nitric acid at home. Be careful, all.

Fair Word Of Caution! You are dealing with concentrated acids. Take all safety precautions when dealing with concentrated acids. Make sure you wear rubber gloves, face shield and protective clothing. If you spill any of the acid, wash with plenty of water.

For our refining purpose we will need relatively small amount of Nitric Acid. To make this, we will use concentrated Sulfuric Acid. Sulfuric Acid is commonly used as a liquid drain opener, readily available from any hardware store. The one that we will use is more than 95 percent pure.

The second ingredient needed is Sodium Nitrate. It is readily available fertilizer from any gardening store.

Pour 200ml of hot distilled water to a pre-heated 1liter Pyrex container, or 1 quart mason jar will work. Add approx. 400 grams of Sodium Nitrate to dissolve (Potassium Nitrate can be used as well). Once the Nitrate is completely dissolved allow it to cool down well below the boiling point, but still hot.

To this solution SLOWLY add 110 ml concentrated Sulfuric Acid while stirring. Do not allow the solution to boil. Cool the solution to room temperature.

Place the jar in the freezer and allow the solution to reach ~ -5 degrees Celsius. Once all of the precipitate has settled, pour off the solution to a glass container with a tightly sealed lid. Discard the precipitate. (Make sure not to transfer any of the sulfate salt) You have just made over 300ml of ~ 50% Nitric Acid.

Fair Word Of Caution! You are dealing with concentrated acids. Take all safety precautions when dealing with concentrated acids. Make sure you wear rubber gloves, face shield and protective clothing. If you spill any of the acid, wash with plenty of water.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:10 AM
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Refine with Simple Household Chemicals

Refine with Simple Household Chemicals




SAFETY FIRST

In this instructable you will be working with basic house hold chemicals. By themselves these chemicals can be fairly harmless. The combination of such chemical which will be presented in this instructable can be EXTREMELY hazardous; By such there are a couple of safety items which are not Optional. THE FOLLOWING ITEMS ARE REQUIRED. FAILURE TO OBTAIN THESE ITEMS BEFORE HAND CAN POSSIBLY COMPROMISE YOUR HEALTH.


Item # 1.
Breathing equipment. You will need a chemical mask rated AT LEAST as a P100. If you dont know what a P100 rating means It is your responsibility to yourself to find out.

Item # 2
Heavy duty Gloves. pvc or rubber is fine, DO NOT use Latex or Nitrile gloves.

Item # 3

Safety Glasses. Any pair will work as long as It is safety rated and solvent rated.


EQUIPMENT NEEDED

Helpful items which can make doing these experiments easier.

1. Borosil glass labware.

2. 2 1/2 gallon bucket.

3. a 1 gallon bucket with holes drilled in the bottom. - to be used as a strainer.

4. a 60 ounce pickle type Jar

5. Coffee filters

6. Filter holder from a coffee machine.

7. Spray bottle.

8. Mini scale with the ability to measure Grams and Oz.

9. some pipettes and test tube.


CHEMICALS REQUIRED


I have used a number of chemicals these I have found to be the most widely available.

1 gallon of Clorox Bleach. or Sodium hypochlorate at 6%

2. Muriatic Acid 34% HCL ~ Baume.

3. Hydrogen Peroxide - 3% but no greater then 5%

4. Stumpout by Bonide or Sodium bisulfate - 99.9% as specified or Sodium Meta Bisulfite.

You cannot substitute these chemicals - trying to do so will not give the required reactions.


SELECTING MATERIALS TO RECOVER GOLD FROM

I was taught by the method of 'Crap in Crap Out'. You want your materials to be as clean as possible with the least Amount of Garbage as possible.

Gold fingers are typically found on PCI cards, ISA cards, or on Memory sims/dimms/ etc. They create the corrosion free connection between the computer and the expansion card.

This process can also be used to recover gold from CPU's such as Pentium Pro, or Cyrix/AMD or older 486 and lower generation chips.

For Pins and connectors etc you should use the electrical method.


THE FIRST CHEMICAL BATH

Objective of this first chemical bath is to remove a large majority the base metals, such as nickle, zinc, and copper.

After cleanly removing your plated sections of computer parts, remove any visible capacitors, transistors, or other components. Be sure to also remove any steel or iron parts attached. These metals can foul the reaction causing poor results.


TOOLS

- 100 ML beaker,

- 1 gallon bucket,

- 2 1/2 gallon bucket.


Chemicals

1. Muratic acid, and

2. hydrogen peroxide.

- Materials you are looking to recover.

First step, place your parts to be recovered inside your 1 gallon strainer bucket. Then place your 1 gallon stainer bucket into your 2 1/2 gallon wash bucket.

At this point you should be wearing your safety gear because unfriendly fumes are being released.

Next
- Add enough muratic acid to cover your fingers about 1 cm above your materials. Keep track of how many MLs are added. You want to keep your waste Acids to a minimum.

Now - To activate the solution you want to add your Hydrogen peroxide 3 - 5% solution in a 2 to 1 ratio. That's two parts muratic acid to one part hydrogen peroxide.

After the Peroxide has been added to your muratic acid, the mixture should start to bubble, and the base metals should begin to dissolve.

This process can take up to 24 - 48 hours.

This works best at the temperatures of 80 - 90 F.

When this has been completed you will see a batch of gold foils floating in your now dark green acid.

Filtering the Gold Foils

This step requires the coffee filters, filter holder and 60oz pickle type jar.

You will simply pore the liquid contents of your two gallon bucket into the pickle jar, using the coffee filters to catch any foils that are floating on the surface of the acid.

Once you have pored off all the acid you will be left with a pile of sludge. Scoop this from the bucket into another container for future processing.

Congratulations - you are about 50% finished.


Disposing of your waste acids


Place your acid in a separate container. I choose used 2 liter or 3 liter bottles. Label these bottles as CLCu2 with a black sharpie marker. under that write 'May also contain trace amounts of nickle and zinc'. You can take these items to your local hazard roundup or Recycle your acids.

DO NOT dump your acids down the Drain or on the ground. it is IMPORTANT to be responsible with Wastes.


The Second Chemical Bath


Refining your gold foils.



THIS STEP SHOULD NEVER BE ATTEMPTED without your CHEMICAL MASK.


This is by far the most hazardous step and with the most reactive wastes.

For this step we are going to use;

1. a 100 ml beaker,

2. recovered foils,

3. Muratic acid, and

4. clorox.


Add only enough Muratic acid to cover the foils. Then, using a Pipette slowly add Clorox until all of the foils have dissolved. You can use a glass rod to help felicitate the process.

After your foils have dissolved the resulting solution will be a deep golden yellow, maybe a little orange in color.

It may be desirable to filter your solution with the coffee filters one more time, depending on if little bits of green plastic from the board found their way into this step.

Filtering Particles

After Dissolving all the foils you might notice a small amount of inductors, caps and transistors that wormed their way into the final process. This is normal.

Simply Filter again using a long neck funnel and a tall flask.

The resulting solution should be a deep and bright golden yellow..



Recovering Your Gold.


Recovering your gold in solution is one of the Coolest steps.

Whats needed,

- a plastic spoon, and

- the Sodium Bisulfate or Stumpout.

Simply add very small amounts of stumpout/SB. Your Mixture should start to bubble and darken. This is caused by the SO2 Gas which acts to chemically displace the gold in solution.

When the reaction has finished you will have driven out a majority of the chlorine, and replaced it with Sulfur. Any gold which was trapped in the solution has now be come a brown precipitate at the bottom of your beaker.


It will take appox 10 hours for the gold to completely settle. The solution should be clear at this point.

Melting

OK, this is the last step. At this point you have drained off the last of the solution with your pipette. The bottom of your beaker should be coated with what looks like dried cinnamon.

THAT'S PURE GOLD. We will put that powder onto a fire brick that has been treated with a flux material like borax. Add the borax on to the brick and melt the borax till it becomes glassy. Apply your powder. Or use a potato as described earlier on this thread.

Heat with a MAPP torch or something more aggressive, careful not to blow your powder off the firebrick.

TADA... Pure 24K gold.


Enjoy....



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  #6  
Old 01-05-2013, 11:14 AM
Don's Avatar
Don Don is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Here and Now
Posts: 852
Refine with Simple Household Chemicals

Refine with Simple Household Chemicals




SAFETY FIRST

In this instructable you will be working with basic house hold chemicals. By themselves these chemicals can be fairly harmless. The combination of such chemical which will be presented in this instructable can be EXTREMELY hazardous; By such there are a couple of safety items which are not Optional. THE FOLLOWING ITEMS ARE REQUIRED. FAILURE TO OBTAIN THESE ITEMS BEFORE HAND CAN POSSIBLY COMPROMISE YOUR HEALTH.


Item # 1.
Breathing equipment. You will need a chemical mask rated AT LEAST as a P100. If you dont know what a P100 rating means It is your responsibility to yourself to find out.

Item # 2
Heavy duty Gloves. pvc or rubber is fine, DO NOT use Latex or Nitrile gloves.

Item # 3

Safety Glasses. Any pair will work as long as It is safety rated and solvent rated.



EQUIPMENT NEEDED

Helpful items which can make doing these experiments easier.

1. Borosil glass labware.

2. 2 1/2 gallon bucket.

3. a 1 gallon bucket with holes drilled in the bottom. - to be used as a strainer.

4. a 60 ounce pickle type Jar

5. Coffee filters

6. Filter holder from a coffee machine.

7. Spray bottle.

8. Mini scale with the ability to measure Grams and Oz.

9. some pipettes and test tube.



CHEMICALS REQUIRED


I have used a number of chemicals these I have found to be the most widely available.

1 gallon of Clorox Bleach. or Sodium hypochlorate at 6%

2. Muriatic Acid 34% HCL ~ Baume.

3. Hydrogen Peroxide - 3% but no greater then 5%

4. Stumpout by Bonide or Sodium bisulfate - 99.9% as specified or Sodium Meta Bisulfite.

You cannot substitute these chemicals - trying to do so will not give the required reactions.



SELECTING MATERIALS TO RECOVER GOLD FROM

I was taught by the method of 'Crap in Crap Out'. You want your materials to be as clean as possible with the least Amount of Garbage as possible.

Gold fingers are typically found on PCI cards, ISA cards, or on Memory sims/dimms/ etc. They create the corrosion free connection between the computer and the expansion card.

This process can also be used to recover gold from CPU's such as Pentium Pro, or Cyrix/AMD or older 486 and lower generation chips.

For Pins and connectors etc you should use the electrical method.



THE FIRST CHEMICAL BATH

Objective of this first chemical bath is to remove a large majority the base metals, such as nickle, zinc, and copper.

After cleanly removing your plated sections of computer parts, remove any visible capacitors, transistors, or other components. Be sure to also remove any steel or iron parts attached. These metals can foul the reaction causing poor results.


TOOLS

- 100 ML beaker,

- 1 gallon bucket,

- 2 1/2 gallon bucket.


Chemicals

1. Muratic acid, and

2. hydrogen peroxide.

- Materials you are looking to recover.


First step, place your parts to be recovered inside your 1 gallon strainer bucket. Then place your 1 gallon stainer bucket into your 2 1/2 gallon wash bucket.

At this point you should be wearing your safety gear because unfriendly fumes are being released.

Next
- Add enough muratic acid to cover your fingers about 1 cm above your materials. Keep track of how many MLs are added. You want to keep your waste Acids to a minimum.

Now - To activate the solution you want to add your Hydrogen peroxide 3 - 5% solution in a 2 to 1 ratio. That's two parts muratic acid to one part hydrogen peroxide.

After the Peroxide has been added to your muratic acid, the mixture should start to bubble, and the base metals should begin to dissolve.

This process can take up to 24 - 48 hours.

This works best at the temperatures of 80 - 90 F.

When this has been completed you will see a batch of gold foils floating in your now dark green acid.



Filtering the Gold Foils

This step requires the coffee filters, filter holder and 60oz pickle type jar.

You will simply pore the liquid contents of your two gallon bucket into the pickle jar, using the coffee filters to catch any foils that are floating on the surface of the acid.

Once you have pored off all the acid you will be left with a pile of sludge. Scoop this from the bucket into another container for future processing.

Congratulations - you are about 50% finished.


Disposing of your waste acids


Place your acid in a separate container. I choose used 2 liter or 3 liter bottles. Label these bottles as CLCu2 with a black sharpie marker. under that write 'May also contain trace amounts of nickle and zinc'. You can take these items to your local hazard roundup or Recycle your acids.

DO NOT dump your acids down the Drain or on the ground. it is IMPORTANT to be responsible with Wastes.



The Second Chemical Bath


Refining your gold foils.



THIS STEP SHOULD NEVER BE ATTEMPTED without your CHEMICAL MASK.


This is by far the most hazardous step and with the most reactive wastes.

For this step we are going to use;

1. a 100 ml beaker,

2. recovered foils,

3. Muratic acid, and

4. clorox.


Add only enough Muratic acid to cover the foils. Then, using a Pipette slowly add Clorox until all of the foils have dissolved. You can use a glass rod to help felicitate the process.

After your foils have dissolved the resulting solution will be a deep golden yellow, maybe a little orange in color.

It may be desirable to filter your solution with the coffee filters one more time, depending on if little bits of green plastic from the board found their way into this step.



Filtering Particles

After Dissolving all the foils you might notice a small amount of inductors, caps and transistors that wormed their way into the final process. This is normal.

Simply Filter again using a long neck funnel and a tall flask.

The resulting solution should be a deep and bright golden yellow..



Recovering Your Gold.


Recovering your gold in solution is one of the Coolest steps.

Whats needed,

- a plastic spoon, and

- the Sodium Bisulfate or Stumpout.

Simply add very small amounts of stumpout/SB. Your Mixture should start to bubble and darken. This is caused by the SO2 Gas which acts to chemically displace the gold in solution.

When the reaction has finished you will have driven out a majority of the chlorine, and replaced it with Sulfur. Any gold which was trapped in the solution has now be come a brown precipitate at the bottom of your beaker.


It will take appox 10 hours for the gold to completely settle. The solution should be clear at this point.



Melting

OK, this is the last step. At this point you have drained off the last of the solution with your pipette. The bottom of your beaker should be coated with what looks like dried cinnamon.

THAT'S PURE GOLD. We will put that powder onto a fire brick that has been treated with a flux material like borax. Add the borax on to the brick and melt the borax till it becomes glassy. Apply your powder. Or use a potato as described earlier on this thread.

Heat with a MAPP torch or something more aggressive, careful not to blow your powder off the firebrick.

TADA... Pure 24K gold.


Enjoy....



__________________
Loves, Buy Physical Gold NOW Feel Your Pain
Ready Or Not - Freegold

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  #7  
Old 01-26-2013, 03:41 AM
LiverFlushMan's Avatar
LiverFlushMan LiverFlushMan is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 6
Have you ever tied making colloidal gold supplement?

Colloids are the smallest particles available to our bodies. Colloidal silver and gold are amazing supplements for our bodies. Silver resonates with the moon and gold resonates with the sun. It is said that colloidal silver can wipe out any know virus including aids in a matter of hours. I don't know the validity of this statement but I believe it may be possible and that the pharma companies don't want this information to get out. Colloidal gold and silver can be purchased at most health food stores and can be made easily but if you make it wrong you can get a disease called algeria where you turn blue like papa smurf and there is currently no way to reverse the blueness of the skin. These supplements are safe when buying them from the health food store it is only when you don't make it properly that you can go blue. Check out the guy who went blue on youtube. Just type blue man algeria colloidal silver. Colloidal gold is the superior of the two and helps are bodies in many many ways. If you are thinking of making your own make sure you research it well there is a forum that explains how you can make it the wrong way and the right way. Make sure you do it the right way or you may go blue forever.
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